ESPÍRITU PAMPA – ”The plain of the Ghosts”
Hiram Bingham came in 1911 to this place, that he thought of as a small Inca settlement, but investigations by many since have shown, that most possible this is what has been referred to as “The lost city of the Incas”, the last Inca capital, from which area the last Inca-revolts towards the Spaniards took place in the late 16th century.
In the year 1440 a great army under Inca Pachacutec entered the zone of Vilcabamba to conquer the aboriginal forest tribes “Antis” and “Chunchos”. The Expedition was successfull and the area was involved as a province in the expanding Inca-Empire. The same way the great Inca Pachacutec followed to conquer the jungle tribes, was used by Inca Manco less than a century later retreating from a terrible army of Spaniards with steel armoured horses and swords. The beginning of the final for the Inca Empire.
ITINERARY:
1st Day.- We leave from Cuzco, in quechua ”the navel of the world”, early in the morning going towards Huancacalle. On the way we turn off in Chaullay, where we also take our lunch. The whole tour is about 10 hours. We arrive in the late afternoon and install us in a basic, but friendly local hostel in Huancacalle.
2nd Day.- We spend the day visiting the archaeological sites of Ñusta Ispañan – place of the famed “White Stone” and Vitcos, first reported by Hiram Bingham in 1911, and short time capital of the Manco Inca. Here Manco Inca lost a bloody battle to the Spaniards before he fled into the jungle.
3th Day.- After breakfast we start our walk towards Espíritu Pampa. We walk along the river into the green valley passing the town of Vilcabamba the New. In our way we pass many wooden crosses, some Inca walls and walking parts of Inca steps and trails. As the vegetation changes from green valley to cloud forest good time after Vilcabamba the New we will be looking for our camp for the night. Possibly close to Río Chalcha or a little before close to the small ruin of Mollipunko or better all the way to Ututu (total 8 hours).
4th Day.- After breakfast we go from Ututu towards Vista Alegre. In the morning we cross many small streams and rivers by log bridges on our way through the junglelike cloud forest with mosses, bromeliads and lots of birdlife. The walk is quite flat and nice. A beautiful and mysterious scenery. Upon arrival at the small community of Vista Alegre we set up our camp on the flat football field next to the closed school. (Bosque Nublado – crossed by many small creeks and rivers).
5th Day.- From Vista Alegre to Concevidayoc (6 hours) once again we cross small streams several times, sometimes getting wet. This day there is some uphill and we have a short climb before arriving to the small farming village of Concevidayoc between the rivers of Pumachaca and Sarahuasi. The place used to house the indigenous village of Marcanay (mentioned by Calancha) under the Inca-Empire. Same village where Padre Ortiz was sentenced to death by Tupac Amaru Inca.
“The view from the pleasant open plaza is a particularly extensive one on all sides. To the north and south are snow-capped mountains, and to the east and west deep beautiful valleys.”
6th Day.- From our camp to Espíritu Pampa it is about 3 hours walking. After we set up our camp we begin our exploration of the archaeological site 20 minutes away supposedly the site of “Vilcabamba the Old” – the last Inca capital and refuge. We spend the rest of the day enjoying the place with its two sectors Hanan and Urin, the Huaca (huge boulder with religious purpose – The White Rock) and learning from the guide about this historically important place, where the last battle between Incas and the Spaniards took place in more than 400 years ago. The nature is amazing. Bingham in his matter-of-fact description about Espíritu Pampa:
“The view from the pleasant open plaza is a particularly extensive one on all sides. To the north and south are snow-capped mountains, and to the east and west deep beautiful valleys.”
7th Day.- Leaving Espiritu Pampa early morning going through the cloud forest to Chanquiri (8 hours), and from here driving through the night to Quillabamba ( next to the UrubambaRiver, the prolonging of the VilcanotaRiver – the sacred river!
8th Day.- We spend the morning in the town of Quillabamba, enjoying a nice breakfast before we start our 8 hours bus trip through cloud forest and mountains back to Cuzco
